Bakkhali , West Bengal May 2013 By Shankha, indiamike
Hello Everyone,
I am going to share my experience about a short weekend trip to Bakkhali during 17th May - 19th May 2013. Before sharing my experience, I would like to thank you all who have already posted threads and comments on Bakkhali and enriched me with knowledge and tips before I decided to enjoy this trip.
I traveled with my wife and my 7yrs. old daughter and another family having a 2.5 yrs. old daughter. My experience are the following.
1. Accommodation - During May, the temperature will rise upto 40 degree celcius at Bakkhali. I decided to have AC rooms. I visited many tour travel sites and read about the rating and finally decided to book my stay at "Bakkhali Tourist Lodge" of West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (WBTDC). I did the advanced booking from the http://app.westbengaltourism.gov.in/...ing/wbtdc.html.
The rating of the accommodation is excellent. Only needs minor maintenance.
Staff are really good provided you are interested in paying a little extra to them as tips.
2. Transport - Car / Bus - I decided to travel via the direct bus of west bengal surface transport corporation. This is a very cost effective and hassle free mode to Bakkhali. The reservation can be done well in advance from the counter at Esplanade bus stand and return reservation is a must as soon as you reach Bakkhali (only from 6 PM to 7:30 PM), if you are planning to return on Sunday. There are two buses, 7 AM and 8 AM from Esplanade and 1 PM and 2 PM from Bakkhali.
3. Food - If you are a Non-Veterinarian and prefer fish, Bakkhali is a heaven on earth for you. The quality of fish both in local hotels and in the restaurant at the Bakkhali Tourist Lodge are awesome. We purchased some fish from local market and got that fried from a local shop. That too was awesome.
4. Drink - Prefer mineral water over local drinking water. If you fascinate to have beer, the Tourist Lodge Bar does not have any. Locally, King Fisher Beer is available.
5. Traveling Around: If you have not a car of your own, you may hire a Maruti Omni (Rs. 300 per person ) / motorized rickshaw van (Rs. 80 / person) to travel around. The van driver may also help you to arrange a trip on boat from the Frazerganj fishing harbor.
I shall share my experience about Bakkhali in this thread on a later date. Meanwhile, I would like to mention that, overall, the trip was excellent - 10/10.
I am going to share my experience about a short weekend trip to Bakkhali during 17th May - 19th May 2013. Before sharing my experience, I would like to thank you all who have already posted threads and comments on Bakkhali and enriched me with knowledge and tips before I decided to enjoy this trip.
I traveled with my wife and my 7yrs. old daughter and another family having a 2.5 yrs. old daughter. My experience are the following.
1. Accommodation - During May, the temperature will rise upto 40 degree celcius at Bakkhali. I decided to have AC rooms. I visited many tour travel sites and read about the rating and finally decided to book my stay at "Bakkhali Tourist Lodge" of West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation (WBTDC). I did the advanced booking from the http://app.westbengaltourism.gov.in/...ing/wbtdc.html.
The rating of the accommodation is excellent. Only needs minor maintenance.
Staff are really good provided you are interested in paying a little extra to them as tips.
2. Transport - Car / Bus - I decided to travel via the direct bus of west bengal surface transport corporation. This is a very cost effective and hassle free mode to Bakkhali. The reservation can be done well in advance from the counter at Esplanade bus stand and return reservation is a must as soon as you reach Bakkhali (only from 6 PM to 7:30 PM), if you are planning to return on Sunday. There are two buses, 7 AM and 8 AM from Esplanade and 1 PM and 2 PM from Bakkhali.
3. Food - If you are a Non-Veterinarian and prefer fish, Bakkhali is a heaven on earth for you. The quality of fish both in local hotels and in the restaurant at the Bakkhali Tourist Lodge are awesome. We purchased some fish from local market and got that fried from a local shop. That too was awesome.
4. Drink - Prefer mineral water over local drinking water. If you fascinate to have beer, the Tourist Lodge Bar does not have any. Locally, King Fisher Beer is available.
5. Traveling Around: If you have not a car of your own, you may hire a Maruti Omni (Rs. 300 per person ) / motorized rickshaw van (Rs. 80 / person) to travel around. The van driver may also help you to arrange a trip on boat from the Frazerganj fishing harbor.
I shall share my experience about Bakkhali in this thread on a later date. Meanwhile, I would like to mention that, overall, the trip was excellent - 10/10.
Details travelougue :-
Finally, the day came and the never ending wait ended. Me and my family
along with a friend of ours Sanjeeb and his family started from
Esplanade at 8 AM sharp on a bus of WBSTC. The bus is a normal one and
costs only Rs. 78 per person from Kolkata to Bakkhali and vice verse. It
is a tiring journey for us and there is no stop (it is recommended) in
the 3hrs 30 minutes journey till the barge crossing ferry at Hatania
Doania river. My friends, while discouraged me mentioned this ordeal
too. If luck permits and there is not a long queue, it's fine, otherwise
it is a pain.
Nothing to eat or drink is available here and only thing to drink was fresh coconut water. We had packaged food like biscuits and cakes etc. with us, that helped us and the children to carry on. During the journey we all got tired and it was hot, sunny and really frustrating for me, as I was the tour arranger. The view of the river was nice and the barge was crossing with loaded vehicles.
Nothing to eat or drink is available here and only thing to drink was fresh coconut water. We had packaged food like biscuits and cakes etc. with us, that helped us and the children to carry on. During the journey we all got tired and it was hot, sunny and really frustrating for me, as I was the tour arranger. The view of the river was nice and the barge was crossing with loaded vehicles.
After a hot 15 minutes, we got the chance to cross the river. The
journey was only for 5 minutes on the barge. Fortunately, the WBSTC bus
always come at the right time when the service is on. The service is off
for 12 PM to 1:45 PM everyday.
Only thing that we had in our minds is to eat our lunch and rest for a while. We just got off from the bus at the Bakkhali bus stand and a motor van driver approached us. It is only 1 minutes distance to the WBTDC Bakkhali Tourist lodge and everyone of the team started cheering me up for the accommodation.
Only thing that we had in our minds is to eat our lunch and rest for a while. We just got off from the bus at the Bakkhali bus stand and a motor van driver approached us. It is only 1 minutes distance to the WBTDC Bakkhali Tourist lodge and everyone of the team started cheering me up for the accommodation.
The rooms were really specious and after resting for a while we started
towards hotel "Adi Parijat" to taste the first meal at Bakkhali.
The hotel was very hot and service is mediocre but the food quality was fabulous. We tried "Bhataki" and "Pomfret". They all tested great. I thanked all members of indiamike who suggested this place.
The hotel was very hot and service is mediocre but the food quality was fabulous. We tried "Bhataki" and "Pomfret". They all tested great. I thanked all members of indiamike who suggested this place.
Now that we have eaten a lot, we just decided to sleep. As I have
already mentioned that the whole idea was to eat and sleep in this tour
as long as it is sunny at the daytime.
We slept for quite sometime and got up around 5 PM. With a great surprise we found out that the whole atmosphere has been changed. It's cloudy outside and strong, yet pleasant wind is blowing outside. Our daughter ran for the swing in the lawn and we were getting ready and taking snaps. Suddenly she ran towards us out of fear. Something or somebody has made her so nervous that she started telling fast who were behind her to disturb her. I quickly took a snap of the two young chaps showing interest.
We slept for quite sometime and got up around 5 PM. With a great surprise we found out that the whole atmosphere has been changed. It's cloudy outside and strong, yet pleasant wind is blowing outside. Our daughter ran for the swing in the lawn and we were getting ready and taking snaps. Suddenly she ran towards us out of fear. Something or somebody has made her so nervous that she started telling fast who were behind her to disturb her. I quickly took a snap of the two young chaps showing interest.
The garden and lawn are so beautiful that all of us remained busy taking
snaps for sometime and finally I had to remind the team that the sea is
only 500 mtrs. away from the entrance of the lodge.
It was actually only 50 meters where the shopping complex for the sea is located and we just hurried to have the first glance of the sea at Bakkhali for the first time in our lives.
It was actually only 50 meters where the shopping complex for the sea is located and we just hurried to have the first glance of the sea at Bakkhali for the first time in our lives.
The rickshaw van driver, whom we met at the bus stand was accompanying
us. He insisted that we should try to visit some places on that only,
but we were reluctant. He told us about the Bishalaxmi temple and I
recalled that, it is the temple I have read at different reviews of
Bakkhali. We headed along the sea shore to reach their. It was already
6:10 PM and the sky being cloudy, it was dusky there. The view again is
very thrilling as the temple is inside the Forrest.
We started towards the bus stand again as I read from a post of Biman
that we need to book our tickets back if we are returning on Sunday. The
counter remains open from 6PM to 7:30 PM at Bakkhali. While returning I
took another snap of the sea that you may like.
During return towards the bus stand we hired the same rickshaw van and
came to know about the man a little better this time. He was extremely
helpful in helping us to purchase fish from the local market. After we
procured the fish, he helped us to get those fried and we had a great
party that night with fried "shrimp" ,"Katala" and beer. The dinner was
served at the room on request from the restaurant of the lodge and it
was really of great quality.
The next morning started at around 9 AM. The breakfast was "luchi - alur dam" and it was complementary. The tea was as great as the breakfast was and we decided to carry on eating our lunch at the restaurant itself, rather than going out.
We called up the same van driver to start our tour towards Henry Island. We came to know his name is Sukumar Maji and he can be found at the bus stand or the sea beach most of the time. He waited and waited till we were ready by 11:45 AM to start for Henry Island.
The village road leading towards the Henry Island was beautiful. Here are some snaps.
The next morning started at around 9 AM. The breakfast was "luchi - alur dam" and it was complementary. The tea was as great as the breakfast was and we decided to carry on eating our lunch at the restaurant itself, rather than going out.
We called up the same van driver to start our tour towards Henry Island. We came to know his name is Sukumar Maji and he can be found at the bus stand or the sea beach most of the time. He waited and waited till we were ready by 11:45 AM to start for Henry Island.
The village road leading towards the Henry Island was beautiful. Here are some snaps.
The route was very narrow and the last part was all brick made. I was at
the back side and it seemed to be an endless journey to the island.
Still I could not stop myself clicking some more photos as the
surroundings were too beautiful and amazingly enough the who sky was
full of clouds.
At the end of the route, we reached at the Sundari residential complex
of the West Bengal Fisheries Development. There is a watch tower to view
the surroundings.
All of us ran towards the tower. My wife got suspicious. This is the
tower, she said. It is not too high. Really it isn't, but the height of
the tower at Henry Island seemed perfect to us. We stayed minutes after
minutes and thought that the van rickshaw driver, Sukumar must have been
very impenitent. Later we came to know how he likes to see people enjoy
these places, his places, their places.
I have read earlier about the view. One side you can see the Bakkhali beach. Far on the other side, at the horizon, the other islands of the Sundarban are visible. I have never seen such a beautiful view of the mangrove forests earlier. I have never seen a mangrove tree earlier. None of us.
I have read earlier about the view. One side you can see the Bakkhali beach. Far on the other side, at the horizon, the other islands of the Sundarban are visible. I have never seen such a beautiful view of the mangrove forests earlier. I have never seen a mangrove tree earlier. None of us.
We headed towards the famous mangrove forest at the Henry Island. This
is a place full of surprises for them, who never came so close to
Sundarban earlier. The hoop marks of wild boars, the mark of a snake,
different trees, crabs of different colors, all were so surprising and
never could be known to us without the help of Sukumar Da. He knows the
flora and fauna of this land very well.
And, now we could here the sound of the sea getting closer. At the end
of the path, there were more surprises waiting for us. The beach of
Henry Island.
We felt like we "own" the beach, as read in one thread at indiamike. All
of us, overjoyed, took lot of snaps in different angles and were
discussing happily how lucky we are to have this cloudy day, because we
all knew, we could not have made it at 1:40 PM at Henry Island. 1:40 PM?
You said 1:40 PM? Will the children remain hungry? Let's go back. My
wife is heading backwards, how on earth I could have stayed any more? We
started returning back.
But some ladies caught our eyes. There is a word in Bengali, "Banyera bone sundar, sishu ra matri crore" meaning the "wild is beautiful at the wilderness as children at their mothers' laps". The wilderness of the scene caught our visions, mesmerized us and finally we started returning back to our lodge by 2:10 PM.
But some ladies caught our eyes. There is a word in Bengali, "Banyera bone sundar, sishu ra matri crore" meaning the "wild is beautiful at the wilderness as children at their mothers' laps". The wilderness of the scene caught our visions, mesmerized us and finally we started returning back to our lodge by 2:10 PM.
[ We stayed the rest of the day at Bakkhali and Frazerganj area and I
shall put the details once I get the chance by today or tomorrow.
A small but important information regarding the expenditure incurred.
1. Accommodation - 3000 (2 days X 1500) + 20% tax = Rs. 3600.
2. Food - We ate fish curry, and meal at hotel "Parijat" - Cost Rs. 130 per meal.
The rest of the time we ordered or ate at the tourist lodge restaurant. It was much costlier but has nice arrangement and AC. Cost per meal near to Rs. 190.
* One good news, anyone may eat at the restaurant even if not residing in the lodge.
** You need to order lunch within 11 AM and dinner within 7:30 PM. You may eat at your convenience later.
Total Cost of ours - Rs. 2000 approximately.
3. Traveling Around - Rs. 600 on the motor van for us with a afternoon trip to Henry Island and again another trip to Frazerganj fishing harbor.
Rs. 100 each for a big boat from the harbor to the mohona (mouth) of the river and back.
4. Bus fair to and fro - Rs. 78 X 2 = Rs. 156 each.
So a total of Rs. 6500 approximately for the three of us.
Hope this helps to them, who are planning an immediate visit.]
A small but important information regarding the expenditure incurred.
1. Accommodation - 3000 (2 days X 1500) + 20% tax = Rs. 3600.
2. Food - We ate fish curry, and meal at hotel "Parijat" - Cost Rs. 130 per meal.
The rest of the time we ordered or ate at the tourist lodge restaurant. It was much costlier but has nice arrangement and AC. Cost per meal near to Rs. 190.
* One good news, anyone may eat at the restaurant even if not residing in the lodge.
** You need to order lunch within 11 AM and dinner within 7:30 PM. You may eat at your convenience later.
Total Cost of ours - Rs. 2000 approximately.
3. Traveling Around - Rs. 600 on the motor van for us with a afternoon trip to Henry Island and again another trip to Frazerganj fishing harbor.
Rs. 100 each for a big boat from the harbor to the mohona (mouth) of the river and back.
4. Bus fair to and fro - Rs. 78 X 2 = Rs. 156 each.
So a total of Rs. 6500 approximately for the three of us.
Hope this helps to them, who are planning an immediate visit.]
After returning back at around 2:45 PM we hurried for our lunch but
planned to start again at 4:30 PM towards the Fishing Harbor at
Frazerganj. Surprisingly we made it to start at around 4:45 PM and
reached at the harbor at around 5:10 PM. The harbor was again at an
eye-catching locations full of mangrove forest at the other side of the
river. I loved the sight as it is the same I have seen any many
traveling photos of Sundarban. I planned for Sundarban earlier but
finally discarded that plan. This particular vision helped me to decide
to have the trip some day.
Some motor boats of the "West Bengal Police" (I believe they are
actually of the Indian cost guards.) were also parked at the harbor.
Sukumar Da, our guide mentioned that, as it is the season when catching
fish is restricted in the sea, we can walk around the harbor happily.
Otherwise, the harbor remains too crowded starting for last week of
June. We approached a boat "starter" to hire a boat for a trip to the
"Mohana" (mouth) of the river. We settled for the trip only for Rs. 100
per person and the boat was really good. The approaching route was full
of mangrove forrest on both sides and the view was amazing. But the best
part was when we actually reached the mohana and approached towards
jambudwip. The sea started rolling our boat violently. The first
experience on the sea in a boat was extraordinary and most of us loved
it.
We have not decided to go to Jambudwip, as there was no time on that day
and the next day is Sunday the 19th of May, our date of return. The
burgain was good though. They would have charged us between Rs.1200 -
Rs.1500 for the same boat for Jambudwip.
During our return to the harbor, we could see the windmills at
Frazerganj. They must be felt as the "windmills of god" by the
returning fishermen after a long fishing session of more than one or two
months and an equally long fight for survival for their lives in a
coarse sea. Then I came to know, why those not so special windmills at
Frazerganj must have been very special in the minds of the local
people.
We returned at the harbor at around 6 PM and it is already dusky
everywhere. We stated returning back and finally came up to the main
road to Bakkhali. Suddenly, beyond our expectation the van driver took a
different route. I recalled he promised us to take to a different beach
than the one we all generally visit. Soon we reached the beach where it
has become too dusky to do nature photography.
The beach was quite except the rolling sea and murmuring of distant trees, there were only us who made sounds. It was around 6:40 PM and I was having a smoke quietly thinking of nothing specific. Just at that moment, Sukumar Da, our van driver pointed out something on the beach on the side of the bank. A slowly moving black spot as much as I could recognize at first. It looked like a dog slowly. This was a jackal, as Sukumar Da pointed out.
We then came back to the hotel by 7:15 PM and again we headed towards the main beach. Wind was blowing heavily. The sands were being dragged from the sea side towards the bank. This was an amazing view to us again, resembling the moving sand at the movie "Mummy". Later we returned to the hotel at around 9 PM and had the last party for the visit of ours this time.
The next morning is the 19th May 2013, Sunday. I had to hurry to the crocodile reserve with my daughter. She was the only person who was interested in the team other than me. We two went their and tried to find out crocodiles in the ponds in the park. We could not see any of them. But, then we came to know, they were always watching us.
The beach was quite except the rolling sea and murmuring of distant trees, there were only us who made sounds. It was around 6:40 PM and I was having a smoke quietly thinking of nothing specific. Just at that moment, Sukumar Da, our van driver pointed out something on the beach on the side of the bank. A slowly moving black spot as much as I could recognize at first. It looked like a dog slowly. This was a jackal, as Sukumar Da pointed out.
We then came back to the hotel by 7:15 PM and again we headed towards the main beach. Wind was blowing heavily. The sands were being dragged from the sea side towards the bank. This was an amazing view to us again, resembling the moving sand at the movie "Mummy". Later we returned to the hotel at around 9 PM and had the last party for the visit of ours this time.
The next morning is the 19th May 2013, Sunday. I had to hurry to the crocodile reserve with my daughter. She was the only person who was interested in the team other than me. We two went their and tried to find out crocodiles in the ponds in the park. We could not see any of them. But, then we came to know, they were always watching us.
We had our lunch at the Tourist Lodge restaurant and just reached at the
right time to the nearby bus stand to catch the 1 PM bus back to
Kolkata.
We were heading towards Kolkata, back to the "maddening habituated
repetition what we all know as life". My tour mate Sanjeeb has been
called several times during the stay and soon he became busy answering
phone calls as he is in marketing. I started thinking of the loads of
mails I need to go through once I am back and act accordingly. I also
have to prepare some reports by the end of business on Monday. So the
upcoming "tomorrow" was full of frustration and I shall not be able to
even discuss about the dream weekend trip we had. I tried to divert my
mind to think of the sweet time we passed rather than the upcoming
workload and tougher times. I started thinking the points again from
begining.
Well, what a trip it was.
In the month of May, the temperature at Bakkhali is horrible and the sun just fries you up. - We had a nice cloudy weather with wind blowing all the time.
The sea at Bakkhali, looks like a river as all said. - The sea was rolling like anything as the wind was high.
A good guide is necessary who is willing to help in all means. - We got the van driver Sukumar Maji (Senior Sukumar - 8001843983).
The food is good if you choose the right place to eat. - We found out the right places.
Henry Island has nothing very special. - We found it very very special as we never traveled to Sundarban and never seen Mangrove forest.
The fishing harbor is full of stinking fish. - No fishes, it was off season.
And on and on. So, all the wishes of mine were fulfilled. I started filling a bit carried away when we reached the river to cross by barge. We are behind a long queue and it will take around 45 minutes to cross the river. Hum, the bad times are started already, I thought and then recalled one thread by Biman here in IndiaMike and had my last wish.
"If the baul comes here nearby, we will loose count of time." As soon as I thought that, the baul boarded our bus.
The first song he sang was "Gyan baro na Bhakti baro, bibad suni sarboda..." (It's knowledge or belief that let's us to be closer to god is a continuous topic of debate.). The voice he had was wonderful in it's own way and I started to think that, the life is not what we had for the last two days and life is not the one we are heading for. Both knowledge and belief can enrich us together to enjoy our lives. Both the pain and pleasure of life is what we should always consider to live in.
And then I requested a "vatiali", my favorite folk song prepared mainly by the boatmen considering a river between this life and after life. The song he sang was amazing and I am sharing the song for all of you to enjoy following the below link.
Well, what a trip it was.
In the month of May, the temperature at Bakkhali is horrible and the sun just fries you up. - We had a nice cloudy weather with wind blowing all the time.
The sea at Bakkhali, looks like a river as all said. - The sea was rolling like anything as the wind was high.
A good guide is necessary who is willing to help in all means. - We got the van driver Sukumar Maji (Senior Sukumar - 8001843983).
The food is good if you choose the right place to eat. - We found out the right places.
Henry Island has nothing very special. - We found it very very special as we never traveled to Sundarban and never seen Mangrove forest.
The fishing harbor is full of stinking fish. - No fishes, it was off season.
And on and on. So, all the wishes of mine were fulfilled. I started filling a bit carried away when we reached the river to cross by barge. We are behind a long queue and it will take around 45 minutes to cross the river. Hum, the bad times are started already, I thought and then recalled one thread by Biman here in IndiaMike and had my last wish.
"If the baul comes here nearby, we will loose count of time." As soon as I thought that, the baul boarded our bus.
The first song he sang was "Gyan baro na Bhakti baro, bibad suni sarboda..." (It's knowledge or belief that let's us to be closer to god is a continuous topic of debate.). The voice he had was wonderful in it's own way and I started to think that, the life is not what we had for the last two days and life is not the one we are heading for. Both knowledge and belief can enrich us together to enjoy our lives. Both the pain and pleasure of life is what we should always consider to live in.
And then I requested a "vatiali", my favorite folk song prepared mainly by the boatmen considering a river between this life and after life. The song he sang was amazing and I am sharing the song for all of you to enjoy following the below link.
The tour was so fulfilled. Like Duronto Jajabar and many others who have
visited Bakkhali many times, I shall pay a visit again in future.
thank you for giving your valuable time































The beach is still virgin. It is very beautiful during the sunset and sunrise. Must visit the Henry's Island, Jumbo Dwip and Deer park. There are several fast-food centres which are really good but costly. Here you can get different items on Prawn. You must take a bath, because the sea is very calm and there are many locals at the beach.
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