From the Aravalli Hills to the Thar Desert, a Rajasthani Adventure
Trip Report, Diwali time, 2010, By Theyyamdancer, indiamike
Palaces, forts, camels, lakes, Jain Temples, havelis, these are a few of
the images conjured up by the word “Rajasthan”. My first mental
pictures were actually drawn for me by Satyajit Ray’s film “Sonar
Kella”, in which the intrepid detective, Feluda, goes in search of the
Golden Fortress, which is – of course – none other than the Sonar Quila
of Jaisalmer. Villains in pointy traditional shoes; runaway camels;
escapades on trains; camel rides; those of you who have seen the
famous film will be immediately transported to the Thar desert…
When we started to plan our itinerary it was always with the aim of making Jaisalmer the focal point. We then decided that Diwali in Jaisalmer would be even better. Thus began the planning, months before the actual travel took place, since we were four people, myself and my husband and fellow IndiaMikers Nayan and her husband.
Whilst looking at the various transportation possiblities, I hit upon a brainwave: to fly to Ahmedabad and thence by hired car to approach Southern Rajasthan and the Aravalli Hills, likely at post-monsoon season to be cloaked in green, and work our way northwards and westwards into the Thar Desert, returning by overnight train to Delhi. So this was how we decided to make our itinerary: Ahmedabad-Dungarpur-Udaipur-Ranakpur-Jodhpur-Jaisalmer-New Delhi. (Due to pressures of work, at the end of planning, we were Mr T and myself travelling as far as Jodhpur; and then the others joined us for the Diwali holidays.)
When we started to plan our itinerary it was always with the aim of making Jaisalmer the focal point. We then decided that Diwali in Jaisalmer would be even better. Thus began the planning, months before the actual travel took place, since we were four people, myself and my husband and fellow IndiaMikers Nayan and her husband.
Whilst looking at the various transportation possiblities, I hit upon a brainwave: to fly to Ahmedabad and thence by hired car to approach Southern Rajasthan and the Aravalli Hills, likely at post-monsoon season to be cloaked in green, and work our way northwards and westwards into the Thar Desert, returning by overnight train to Delhi. So this was how we decided to make our itinerary: Ahmedabad-Dungarpur-Udaipur-Ranakpur-Jodhpur-Jaisalmer-New Delhi. (Due to pressures of work, at the end of planning, we were Mr T and myself travelling as far as Jodhpur; and then the others joined us for the Diwali holidays.)
Dungarpur
We had made excellent time from the airport to the small sleepy town of
Dungarpur. Originally we had planned to stop off to visit the baoli
(step well) of Adalav Wav, 19 km to the north of Ahmedabad.
Unfortunately our driver did not seem to understand the request, so we
let it go (thinking that in a future trip to India we might well
concentrate our energies on Gujarat anyway). So we drove directly to
the Aravalli Hills. This autumn, after an exceptionally good monsoon,
they are indeed very green. Having decided to splash out on the Udai
Bilas Palace Hotel, we were very comfortably lodged indeed. One of the
main reasons of coming to Dungarpur was to visit the Juna Mahal Palace,
owned by the same family as the hotel. At this point, a big thank you
to Jorge Reverter, who has photographed the Juna Mahal so well. Also, a
huge thank you to Pinkyparker, for recommending this hotel.
We set off the next day to Juna Mahal, along a very rough road indeed. At this point we regretted our choice of car as the suspension was poor. We swapped it for a better one the next day. Haggling over cars was a bit of a downer; but finally we had a really good comfortable Innova at a reasonable price.
The Juna Mahal is a masterpiece!
I will not be able to convey the splendours of the decorations but I will post a few thumbnails here so that you may get the general idea.
We set off the next day to Juna Mahal, along a very rough road indeed. At this point we regretted our choice of car as the suspension was poor. We swapped it for a better one the next day. Haggling over cars was a bit of a downer; but finally we had a really good comfortable Innova at a reasonable price.
The Juna Mahal is a masterpiece!
I will not be able to convey the splendours of the decorations but I will post a few thumbnails here so that you may get the general idea.
We were the only visitors for the most part. Our guide was immensely
patient with us as we spent ages poring over the frescos and taking
snapshots of old Dungarpur through the windows and arches of the palace.
Later a couple from Delhi (also residing in our hotel) came to see the
palace but they departed quickly after a cursory glance, leaving us
alone again.
This visit actually spoiled us rotten because when we visited other palaces and forts with many tourists we thought back to how tranquil this place was and compared the others (unjustly) unfavourably.
After our tour we went into the bazaar of New Dungarpur for a look around and to purchase some peanuts and Nescafe. We wandered around in the midday sun and were the only tourists. Nobody bothered us. Not a single tout. On the contrary people showed us where to go shopping and chatted to us about the forthcoming Diwali festival. They were putting up bunting and preparing the fire crackers.
Due to our exhaustion (still recovering from Durga Puja festival in Kolkata and a wonderful visit to Hampi!) we spent a lot of time at our hotel, enjoying its garden, the lake views, the many birds, as well as the company of the resident pet dogs (including two very friendly Great Danes).
This visit actually spoiled us rotten because when we visited other palaces and forts with many tourists we thought back to how tranquil this place was and compared the others (unjustly) unfavourably.
After our tour we went into the bazaar of New Dungarpur for a look around and to purchase some peanuts and Nescafe. We wandered around in the midday sun and were the only tourists. Nobody bothered us. Not a single tout. On the contrary people showed us where to go shopping and chatted to us about the forthcoming Diwali festival. They were putting up bunting and preparing the fire crackers.
Due to our exhaustion (still recovering from Durga Puja festival in Kolkata and a wonderful visit to Hampi!) we spent a lot of time at our hotel, enjoying its garden, the lake views, the many birds, as well as the company of the resident pet dogs (including two very friendly Great Danes).
Udaipur
Ranakpur
Jain Temples of Ranakpur
Following the tried and trusted tourist trail northwards we arrived in
Udaipur, and made straight for the Kankarwa Haveli at Lal Ghat (see my
hotel review here at IndiaMike), which was a great choice as it turned
out. We had a room right at the top of the haveli with a splendid view
across Lake Pichola. Leaving our rucksacks we set off to explore the
city.
We walked a lot that day. I had the notion (foolish, as it turned out) that we could board a boat and alight on the island of Jagniwas, where – as everyone knows, and as signs throughout Udaipur continue to clamour – the film “Octopussy” was partly shot. Hoping to follow close on the heels of James Bond, we had planned to have a Dry Martini in the famous luxury hotel, a “shaken, not stirred” cocktail. But as luck would have it, these boat rides to Jagniwas are a thing of the past. Due to extra security measures, non-residents of the hotel are not permitted to land on the island. Well, when one door closes, another opens. We found out that we would be allowed to take a boat to the Jagmandir Island, and would (for a reasonable fee) be allowed to eat dinner there. So we opted for this choice.
Meanwhile, we continued our walking tour of Udaipur, ending up outside the City Palace, were I am ashamed to say we were too footsore and too shell-shocked by the crowds to enter. We plonked ourselves down in the café opposite the entrance and just watched the tourists go by.
Later we boarded our craft for the 5 minute crossing to Jagmandir Island. History books relate that the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan was inspired by the Jagmandir Palace when he was conjuring up his architectural plans for the Taj Mahal. Certainly the chhatri is very attractive. And the dinner was pretty good too. We tried the local speciality of lal maas (mutton in a spicy red sauce) which was delicious. The boat ride back was very romantic with twinkling lights all around.
Next day we arose at dawn to watch the birds flitting across the lake and the outlines of the buildings becoming clearer as the sun crept higher. Our balcony provided an excellent viewpoint. Then we had a hearty breakfast and left Udaipur with some regrets that we had not planned to stay longer.
We walked a lot that day. I had the notion (foolish, as it turned out) that we could board a boat and alight on the island of Jagniwas, where – as everyone knows, and as signs throughout Udaipur continue to clamour – the film “Octopussy” was partly shot. Hoping to follow close on the heels of James Bond, we had planned to have a Dry Martini in the famous luxury hotel, a “shaken, not stirred” cocktail. But as luck would have it, these boat rides to Jagniwas are a thing of the past. Due to extra security measures, non-residents of the hotel are not permitted to land on the island. Well, when one door closes, another opens. We found out that we would be allowed to take a boat to the Jagmandir Island, and would (for a reasonable fee) be allowed to eat dinner there. So we opted for this choice.
Meanwhile, we continued our walking tour of Udaipur, ending up outside the City Palace, were I am ashamed to say we were too footsore and too shell-shocked by the crowds to enter. We plonked ourselves down in the café opposite the entrance and just watched the tourists go by.
Later we boarded our craft for the 5 minute crossing to Jagmandir Island. History books relate that the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan was inspired by the Jagmandir Palace when he was conjuring up his architectural plans for the Taj Mahal. Certainly the chhatri is very attractive. And the dinner was pretty good too. We tried the local speciality of lal maas (mutton in a spicy red sauce) which was delicious. The boat ride back was very romantic with twinkling lights all around.
Next day we arose at dawn to watch the birds flitting across the lake and the outlines of the buildings becoming clearer as the sun crept higher. Our balcony provided an excellent viewpoint. Then we had a hearty breakfast and left Udaipur with some regrets that we had not planned to stay longer.
Ranakpur
I was very excited about Ranakpur; having heard so much about the Jain
Temples. I was not disappointed! We stopped overnight at the Ranakpur
Hill Resort, which was comfortable, but the food was horrible (they
certainly cater for “western tastes”).
Jain Temples of Ranakpur
I cannot adequately express the beauty of these temples.
It is important to note that the faithful are visiting in the morning hours. Tourists are permitted to visit between noon and 5 p.m. only. All leather items and mobile phones and water bottles must be left outside. Photography is allowed for a small fee; videos cost extra. Admission is free.
We spent more than three hours wandering around, amazed and delighted. There were initially few other people. As the afternoon grew, so did the number of tourists (including some loud European coach parties).
Returning to the tranquillity of the Ranakpur Hill Resort, conveniently located just a couple of miles up the road, we bathed in the glow of the beauties we had just witnessed, and not even a severe thunderstorm disturbed our sleep.
It is important to note that the faithful are visiting in the morning hours. Tourists are permitted to visit between noon and 5 p.m. only. All leather items and mobile phones and water bottles must be left outside. Photography is allowed for a small fee; videos cost extra. Admission is free.
We spent more than three hours wandering around, amazed and delighted. There were initially few other people. As the afternoon grew, so did the number of tourists (including some loud European coach parties).
Returning to the tranquillity of the Ranakpur Hill Resort, conveniently located just a couple of miles up the road, we bathed in the glow of the beauties we had just witnessed, and not even a severe thunderstorm disturbed our sleep.
Jodhpur
In Jodhpur, reunited with our friends, we had reserved two rooms at the
Indrashan Guest House, just on the outskirts of Jodhpur. (I had found
this guest house through the incredibly useful guide book “Alistair
Sawday’s Special Places To Stay”.) It was very comfortable and the food
exquisite. All of us agreed that the Rajasthani dishes we were served
could not be bettered elsewhere. We also met some interesting people
amongst the other guests, including a couple who are very keen on scuba
diving in the Andamans.
After freshening up and taking chai, we set off to explore the Blue City. The obvious choice of landmark by which to get your bearings is the Clock Tower. So we walked there and meandered around the market stalls which were very lively due to the upcoming Diwali festival. I purchased a lot of stickers with deities on as well as some stickers of feet. Unfortunately I left them behind in our room. Never mind. Nayan bought some beautiful pink bangles.
One of our group was exceedingly keen to try the local specialities. First stop: a shop selling Makhani Lassi. He pronounced it good but too filling. It looked very thick, more like a sweet than a drink. Next stop: the famous Omelette shop of Jodhpur. We had a long photo session there and a chat to the owner. He claims to use up thousands of eggs daily. The Lonely Planet has made him famous.
After dusk fell and we were still in the bazaar, we decided to climb the stairs of the Pal Haveli to enjoy the view of sunset over the rooftops. It was splendid. A cool beer and a refreshing breeze were welcome.
Next day we set out enthusiastically to sightsee at the Meherangarh fort. This has been described and photographed many times! We particularly enjoyed the views over the town; the wonderful stained glass windows of the Moti Mahal and the Phool Mahal; and the quaint costumes of the guards (who were, of course, wearing those wonderful jooties or pointy shoes).
Sauntering downwards through the alleyways of the blue buildings, we found ourselves once more back in the vicinity of the Clock Tower. More souvenir shopping was on the agenda for some; more lassi on the agenda for others. Nayan and her husband will tell you perhaps about their visit to the Umaid Bhawan Palace. (We were too lazy to go there.
)
Our stay in Jodhpur was short but sweet.
After freshening up and taking chai, we set off to explore the Blue City. The obvious choice of landmark by which to get your bearings is the Clock Tower. So we walked there and meandered around the market stalls which were very lively due to the upcoming Diwali festival. I purchased a lot of stickers with deities on as well as some stickers of feet. Unfortunately I left them behind in our room. Never mind. Nayan bought some beautiful pink bangles.
One of our group was exceedingly keen to try the local specialities. First stop: a shop selling Makhani Lassi. He pronounced it good but too filling. It looked very thick, more like a sweet than a drink. Next stop: the famous Omelette shop of Jodhpur. We had a long photo session there and a chat to the owner. He claims to use up thousands of eggs daily. The Lonely Planet has made him famous.
After dusk fell and we were still in the bazaar, we decided to climb the stairs of the Pal Haveli to enjoy the view of sunset over the rooftops. It was splendid. A cool beer and a refreshing breeze were welcome.
Next day we set out enthusiastically to sightsee at the Meherangarh fort. This has been described and photographed many times! We particularly enjoyed the views over the town; the wonderful stained glass windows of the Moti Mahal and the Phool Mahal; and the quaint costumes of the guards (who were, of course, wearing those wonderful jooties or pointy shoes).
Sauntering downwards through the alleyways of the blue buildings, we found ourselves once more back in the vicinity of the Clock Tower. More souvenir shopping was on the agenda for some; more lassi on the agenda for others. Nayan and her husband will tell you perhaps about their visit to the Umaid Bhawan Palace. (We were too lazy to go there.
)Our stay in Jodhpur was short but sweet.
Jaisalmer
On the road to Jaisalmer, high excitement and tension prevailed amongst
us. We all were fully expecting to see camels bearing Feluda and his
companions. Later on, one of our group would actually meet inside the
Jaisalmer Fort a guy who had been an extra on the set of Satyajit Ray’s
film! We were thrilled.
We took a break in our journey at the Manwar Resort, where we enjoyed a cuppa and shopped for souvenirs (really pretty bracelets).
In Jaisalmer we stayed at the Desert Moon Guest House (see my review in the Hotel Section of IndiaMike), which was very welcoming. That night I dreamed of sand dunes…..
The previous evening Mr T and I walked up to the Fort and dined at the Little Italy restaurant, where we had a very long chat with a Nepalese waiter who was homesick for the Himalayas.
Jaisalmer is a Medieval town, more attractive in my opinion than other cities of Rajasthan, but it is slightly marred by persistent touts and very pervasive motorbikes who attempt to knock pedestrians out of their way as they zoom around the narrow streets leading to the Fort.
The sandstone buildings bathed in a golden light are what give the town its name. We had a wonderful view across the rooftops from a nameless building beyond the Jain Temples. The owner (whose guest house it was) encouraged us to enjoy the view and agreed with us that the touts in the fort are extremely off-putting. He was not trying to sell us anything at all.
The next day we four explored the surroundings of Jaisalmer, which was great fun. The obligatory camel ride was very short, since none of us were terribly keen on the motion of the beast. But I am glad we did it, so we can say we did! In fact, it is not so very desert-like, this Thar desert. This year it is very lush and green, due to the plentiful monsoon. If anyone had preconceived ideas of a desert like the Sahara, they would certainly be disappointed. Luckily for us we were there at the Sam village before the afternoon/evening rush; we therefore viewed the place in relative tranquillity.
Diwali was approaching. Unfortunately I was unwell. I had caught a bronchitis/pneumonia and spent one day in bed. (After reaching back home to Greece it has taken me a double dose of antibiotics and two weeks before I am starting to feel well again.) At the time I thought too much dust and air-conditioning were my foes and did not pay much attention to my persistent cough and running nose. The fireworks of course did not help my condition. But, the traveller has to continue in spite of feeling sometimes as if he/she wished to be at home in bed.
The great celebrations of Diwali we viewed atop the Trio Restaurant, just next to the entrance of the Fort. (Thank you Nadreg for this recommendation.) Amazing fireworks lit the skies. We were lucky also to have a musical accompaniment. The musicians of the restaurant were playing the Morchand, or Jew’s Harp.
Next day we set off by train for New Delhi, after another short car ride into the desert to say our farewells to this special and enduringly compelling place.
We took a break in our journey at the Manwar Resort, where we enjoyed a cuppa and shopped for souvenirs (really pretty bracelets).
In Jaisalmer we stayed at the Desert Moon Guest House (see my review in the Hotel Section of IndiaMike), which was very welcoming. That night I dreamed of sand dunes…..
The previous evening Mr T and I walked up to the Fort and dined at the Little Italy restaurant, where we had a very long chat with a Nepalese waiter who was homesick for the Himalayas.
Jaisalmer is a Medieval town, more attractive in my opinion than other cities of Rajasthan, but it is slightly marred by persistent touts and very pervasive motorbikes who attempt to knock pedestrians out of their way as they zoom around the narrow streets leading to the Fort.
The sandstone buildings bathed in a golden light are what give the town its name. We had a wonderful view across the rooftops from a nameless building beyond the Jain Temples. The owner (whose guest house it was) encouraged us to enjoy the view and agreed with us that the touts in the fort are extremely off-putting. He was not trying to sell us anything at all.
The next day we four explored the surroundings of Jaisalmer, which was great fun. The obligatory camel ride was very short, since none of us were terribly keen on the motion of the beast. But I am glad we did it, so we can say we did! In fact, it is not so very desert-like, this Thar desert. This year it is very lush and green, due to the plentiful monsoon. If anyone had preconceived ideas of a desert like the Sahara, they would certainly be disappointed. Luckily for us we were there at the Sam village before the afternoon/evening rush; we therefore viewed the place in relative tranquillity.
Diwali was approaching. Unfortunately I was unwell. I had caught a bronchitis/pneumonia and spent one day in bed. (After reaching back home to Greece it has taken me a double dose of antibiotics and two weeks before I am starting to feel well again.) At the time I thought too much dust and air-conditioning were my foes and did not pay much attention to my persistent cough and running nose. The fireworks of course did not help my condition. But, the traveller has to continue in spite of feeling sometimes as if he/she wished to be at home in bed.
The great celebrations of Diwali we viewed atop the Trio Restaurant, just next to the entrance of the Fort. (Thank you Nadreg for this recommendation.) Amazing fireworks lit the skies. We were lucky also to have a musical accompaniment. The musicians of the restaurant were playing the Morchand, or Jew’s Harp.
Next day we set off by train for New Delhi, after another short car ride into the desert to say our farewells to this special and enduringly compelling place.
thank you for giving your valuable time
